Peter Kuruvita’s Noosa Beach House

As soon as I heard that Peter Kuruvita was opening a venue in Noosa I wanted in. I heard that it would be a casual restaurant and bar through the day that transformed into a fine diner at night. I was so keen, I emailed the restaurant 3 weeks in advance to try and score a table on their first night of service. I secured a table for four and also scored the best seat for watching the chefs cook in the kitchen.

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Of course many of you may already know of Peter from his popular cooking shows, cookbooks or his restaurant empire including Flying Fish in Sydney as well as a Steakhouse and another Flying Fish in Fiji.

First I would like to commend the very nice reply I received after I made an inquiry about the booking. It was formal and polite setting a good mood for the night.

I had spent the day cooking at the Noosa Food & Wine Festival, but not eating, which gave me a great appetite. I had no idea what to expect from the restaurant and hoped it would have some of Peter’s specialty dishes which are known to be hearty and generous. This was exactly what I found on offer.

The restaurant has a beach house feel with stained wood floors and chairs contrasting with the white walls and tablecloths.

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On entry we had a chat with the manager who explained that the restaurant staff had been through two services, one for the hotel staff so they had an idea of what they were doing. This showed with the friendly service we were given.

We decided to order two servings of the bread, share the Beach House Seafood Tapas plate and one of the entrees which we were drawn to. On the tapas plate was a Sri Lankan kingfish ceviche, seared scallop, seared prawn and another raw fish dish. I tried a bite of each and loved the creamy kingfish ceviche the most. The sourdough bread was nicely toasted and was well matched with the moreish eggplant dip. The oil and balsamic was pleasant but nothing unusual.

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The entree of Seared Yellow Fin Tuna, Ruby Grapefruit, Sweet Pork, Crackling ($22) stood out for me. The immaculately presented tower of components were visually appealing and the taste was even better. The tartness of the ruby grapefruit, counterbalanced the sweetness of the pork and black pepper caramel. The lightly seared kingfish adding the soft texture and crackling, the crispy texture. An absolutely flawless dish that provided a great start to the meal ahead.

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Next, I just had to try Peter’s signature fish curry. Though, I was surprised by the presentation. I was instructed to construct the dish myself with the portioning of the sauce, rice and raita left to my hands. As you can see in my before and after picture. In full, the dish was a Sri Lankan Snapper Curry, Basmati Rice, Condiments ($38). The condiments included tamarind puree, coconut sambal, oven roasted tomatoes, crispy curry leaves and raita. The sauce was lightly spiced and had a lovely fragrant smell. The snapper was cooked perfectly with a lovely crispy skin but I wished I hadn’t poured the sauce over the fish as it had become less crispy. Nonetheless, it was a nicely executed dish and a generous serving.

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Dad opted for the Pan Roasted Local Reef Fish, Confit Garlic, Tamarind Sauce ($34), which on this night was Snapper. He usually goes for the red meat option when we dine out but he really enjoyed this dish.

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Mum made a brave move deciding to tackle the 500g (3 full) Steamed Moreton Bay Bugs tossed with Chilli, Ginger and Shallot (MP on the night was around $40). “Brave” as in eating with a pale pink shawl on! On cue the waitress offered her a special bib which Mum was very grateful for. I had a couple of mouthfuls and loved it as it was my first taste of bug, I can’t really tell if it was as would be expected. The sauce complemented the bug superbly with a pronounced spiced flavour.

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Even the Princess was over the moon with her kid’s menu steak and onion rings.

After main I was invited by the manager to go and meet Peter in the kitchen. I told him how I had taken his place at last year’s Noosa Festival Delicious Produce Dinner and he laughed. Here is a photo with him.

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Before long, the desserts arrived. We ordered two and decided to share. First was the Banana Soufflé, Lemon Semifreddo, Coconut ($16). It was quite a large soufflé, which I had hoped as it was quite an expensive dessert. It was just as a soufflé should be, airy, light, high, and delicate with a distinct banana flavor. The accompanying semifreddo was refreshing with the shredded coconut.

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Also ordered was the Salted Peanut Butter Semifreddo ($17). How good does salted peanut butter sound? Imagining how good it would be, doesn’t even come close to reality. In reality it was even better! The creamy half frozen ice-cream with the added crunch of the peanuts was outstanding. The unexpected addition of meringues, banana mousse and a crunchy peanut brittle, that we all fought over, was an enjoyable finish.

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Peter Kuruvita’s Noosa Beach House survived first night nerves admirably and dished out simple and hearty fare in a lovely revamped room more than worthy of its setting in iconic Hastings Street.  I had questioned how they would cope when Peter is on his lengthy television adventures but be well assured that Katie McKay and Gary Whyte (ex Le Manoir, ENG) as well as Tony Kelly (ex Stokehouse) are more than qualified to take the reins.

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Monty’s CBD

There is a little boutique chocolate and coffee shop I believe that all Brisbane gourmets should know about. Owned and run by Steve, an English born chocolate connoisseur, Monty’s provides me with my afternoon treats once a month on my walk home from school along Edward Street in the CBD. The friendly service, decadent treats and the beautifully decorated room make it my perfect afternoon hangout.

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Steve tells me he had always loved chocolate from an early age. He recalls his Dad buying eight special chocolates from an expensive Mayfair chocolate store in London on a rare occasion.  A massive treat for Steve as a kid. At Easter he would only ask his parents for a Terry’s Chocolate Orange which most English people all know and many Australians have come to understand, is an orange flavoured chocolate ball which has segments like an actual orange. On a school trip to France, when he was 14, he had an eye opening experience to the world of chocolate when he saw the depth of the chocolate range there.

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There are three Monty’s shops spread throughout Brisbane, one in Paddington, one in Spring Hill and the CBD one where Steve spends most of his time. The CBD store features many world renowned and local chocolate producers including my favourite, Francois Pralus (France) as well as Sea Salt, Artison du chocolat and Charbonnel et Walker (both made in the UK), Rococo (Belgravia), Coppeneur (Germany), Menakao (Madagascar), Nick’s Chocolate (grown overseas but supplied in Brisbane), Nina’s (NSW) and QLD’s very own Cravve made in Burleigh Heads and Daintree made in NQ.

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I first discovered Monty’s after hearing rave reviews about their signature hot chocolate. It won the Best Hot Chocolate Award in the prestigious 2012 Foodies’ Guide to Brisbane. I was desperate to try it. I wandered into the shop and was treated to a fantastic chocolate tasting plate and the most rich, thick and indulgent hot chocolate I had ever tasted. If you thought you have tried the best hot chocolate in the world then you haven’t visited Monty’s yet, so prepare to be converted. Despite my best efforts Steve won’t divulge the full recipe and technique to me, but he did provide some pointers about how to make it. It’s made fresh every morning, he uses Swiss couverture and chocolate made from beans they import from Madagascar and adds the secret ingredients and places it in the machine below. This machine constantly stirs the chocolate keeping it from going hard.

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The end product is a lusciously thick serve of Monty’s hot chocolate.

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But the hot chocolate is only part of a truly decadent experience. The milkshakes, all made with real flavours, are outstanding. My two favourites are the orange and chilli.

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But of course, the chocolate cabinet is the piece de resistance featuring my favourite chocolates: Coppeneur raspberry cream and yoghurt and blackberry flavoured bark, Artisan du chocolate liquid salted caramels, Rococo geranium cream or just let Steve decide by selecting a tasting plate for you in White, Milk or Dark chocolate.

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Below is a cool little quote I found on a collage outside the front of Monty’s. I think it really sums up chocolate for everyone.

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If you are wandering around town looking for a good coffee, in need of a present for your loved one or just would like some refuge from the busy streets, look no further, Monty’s is my best suggestion. Steve reassures, “Monty’s is a place for anyone, regardless of age or background. No snobs allowed!”

Oh, and in case you are wondering who Monty is, it’s Steve’s little Chihuahua.

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BirdCage

Nestled comfortably in the well respected ‘antique quarter’ of Woolloongabba lays Birdcage, a new pan Asian restaurant recently reincarnated from the former Bistro Bistro. Sitting in an 1890 heritage building brings high expectations; happily BirdCage delivers on all levels.

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On entry, unique touches include two big Buddha’s gazing over the front door, sky blue feature lamps, ornate candles trapped in white birdcages and a soft tinge of red resonating throughout the long dining room.

With the deft hand on the floor from owner Darryl Marsden, who has spent his time managing hotels in Bali, Japan and Fiji, service runs reasonably smooth.

Sharing was recommended so we opted for three entrees as many took our interest.

The first entree of oxtail braised in star anise and lemongrass, with Chinese green onion pancakes and chili jam ($16) was fragrant and moreish. The ‘melt in your mouth’ meat sat in a rich, thick sauce. The roti-style pancakes, creating the much needed crisp and flaky texture. However, the jam, which was more like a sambal, was not as tasty and spicy as my Malaysian Nan’s.

Salmon tartare with green onion, young ginger, soy, sesame oil and chili ($17) was cleanly presented showcasing the perfect cubes of fresh raw fish. Simple flavours, good combinations and a decent amount of technique highlighted this dish.

The last entrée of Eggnets filled with oyster mushrooms, bean sprouts, snow peas and daikon ($14) were satisfying, both for my arteries and taste buds. The different vegetables perfectly complemented each other showing the chefs knowledge of flavours. The accompanying ginger dipping sauce wasn’t bad, though lacked any punch.

Main was the duck breast on red Thai curry with caramelised pineapple, apple eggplant and roasted shallots ($32). The perfect pink breast sat atop the comforting thick sauce with the large pieces of vegetable and fruits scattered throughout adding some crunch. The shape of the dish was not in my favour, presenting a challenge when trying to divide the bigger than bite size duck slices as they sat in the depths of the bowl.

For dessert, I opted for the banana fritters with salted coconut caramel and vanilla ice-cream ($15). It was a generous serving, maybe because they knew we were sharing? The melted ladyfinger bananas were covered in a beautiful crisp batter alternating with the luscious ice cream. The rich caramel sauce, a welcome addition and perfect match.

BirdCage displays a good selection from the enormous range of Asian cuisines. The options present nicely and with the ambience create an enjoyable experience.

I’m glad this new bird has not flown the coop and encourage a visit to the latest addition of the ‘antique quarter.’

The Scores…

Ambiance 8/10

Food 7.5/10

Service 8/10

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Esquire

My birthday meals have always had a high standard. You could even say that they have criteria they need to meet. Last years Buffalo Club dinner set exceedingly high expectations and I wondered if I would ever have a birthday meal close to that magnificent one. The results have been recorded… Esquire passed with flying colours!

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First of all, I must confess. My visit was on the 22nd of November 2012 and I have been very busy and have not turned my notes taken from the meal into a review until just now. I do know that most of the dishes I have reviewed are still on the menu they are currently using.

The inside of the restaurant has a distinctive Scandinavian feel. This ambience has become popular throughout the world after the rise to world fame by Noma. Noma has received the most prestigious award in the industry, 3 times in a row (the world’s best restaurant according to the S.Pallegrino Guide). Esquires setting isn’t the only thing deriving from ‘The World’s Best Restaurant’, Executive Chef Ryan Squires and Head Chef Ben Devlin have both had stints at Noma as well as many other renowned restaurants overseas.

Esquire took Brisbane by storm winning the prestigious best restaurant in Queensland as well as picking up three stars, cementing them in the top restaurants in Australia.

The table setting was unfamiliar to the usual misen place. The knives and forks had no sharp edge and while they were long the shortest part of the knife was metal blade. The waitress said that sharp cutlery was not needed until the last savoury dish.

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As I was persuading Dad to order the 7 course menu, the 1st amuse bouche arrived. Inside the large organically textured bowl appeared two pieces of Kim Chi, air-dried beef (basturma?) and two ‘kettle’ chips – one salt and vinegar and one barbecue flavour. They were very tasteful and crispy.

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We had just decided on the 7 course menu when amuse bouche number two arrived. The waitress was very happy when we told her our final decision. The amuse was served on a natural slab of wood, again going with the organic theme that was pronounced throughout the meal. The snack was called truffle and itchi bai. Itchi bai is also known as Roy de Valles, which is a French cheese made from a mix of sheep and goat milk. The cheese was sandwiched with truffle and jamon iberico in between two rye crisps. Without a doubt the best cheese and crackers I have ever had!

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1st course was presented in high-sided organically textured bowls with both bowls bearing a different colour. On the menu it was written as Blue Swimmer Crab- Macadamia and Coffee but explained as steamed blue swimmer crab with macadamia milk and coffee soil. The coffee had graininess but not a strong flavour. The milk was subtle and soaked into the coffee and crab. The crab was juicy with a lovely tenderness. Overall, a stunning opening course.

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Course 2 was served in the same bowls as the first course. It read as Scallop- Orecchietti and Bisque. This time a chef presented us with the dish. Similarly with Noma chefs act as waiters now and again to provide a personal experience. He explained that the scallop was lightly smoked, the bisque dehydrated and the orecchietti cooked under al dente for texture. The addition of English broad beans gave the meal a splash of colour and texture.

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Course 3 read as Murray Cod and Mustard Leaf but explained as Chinchilla Murray Cod cooked over charcoal with green mustard puree, green mustard seeds and an Asian cabbage. On the right of the main kitchen is a charcoal cooking station where Ben Devlin was working on the day. Cooking with charcoal gives an even and clean outcome and lets the ingredient reach its full potential. The fish skin was nice and crispy and maintained a delicate flesh. The dish slightly resembled the commercial mustard taste though with pronounced flavour. The dish was soft and delicate and didn’t have to be cut.

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Below is a picture of the charcoal cooking station.

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My favourite came next. It read as Lamb Belly- Eggplant and Cavolo Nero. Cavalo nero is also known as kale and was transformed into a puree. The eggplant was cooked in a water bath which resulted in it being soft and flavoursome. The best lamb I have ever tried! It was cooked for 36 (?) hours and then glazed in its juices to ensure caramelization. The final product was a sticky and tender slice of high quality lamb that makes my taste buds yearn just talking about it. The beautiful garlic flowers provided stunning colour. The bowl which I think was a Glenn Tebble bowl made a great backdrop to the well planned and executed dish.

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The last savoury course was presented with new cutlery that had a sharp edge. The dish read as Coal Roasted Highly Marbled Beef- Parsley and Horseradish. The perfectly cooked coal roasted beef came with parsley puree, horseradish yoghurt and onion bouillon. The beef cut was the deckle, which has a lovely tenderness to it when it is cooked perfectly as it is an underused part of the cow’s rib. It certainly was cooked to perfection with a rare inner and caramelized outside. The parsley puree was smooth and complemented the horseradish cream stunningly. In all, another fantastic dish!

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Next up – a cheeky representation of popcorn. It was grilled sweet corn parfait with caramel popcorn dust sprinkled over and a touch of tarragon oil. It was so fun to eat and surprisingly didn’t melt. What a good idea!

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Next to the popcorn were two cocoa and coconut rocks. They became a powder when bitten. They looked very cool as they were presented in a coconut shell.

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The final course read as Campari- Orange, Curds and Whey. The dessert chef presented the dish to us and spoke quickly, nevertheless we managed to hear campari sherbet with orange sorbet and curds and whey ice cream. An intriguing dish which tasted amazing with tangy, creamy, fruity and just plain amazing texture and flavour.

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This was the view of the kitchen from our seats.

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Esquire provides an intimate and personalized experience with food that lingers on your mind long after the experience- it makes you wonder how these things could happen. With an extraordinary view, an intimate setting, personalized service, an experienced kitchen team, a stunning natural and organic theme and a handful of renowned awards, this restaurant is shooting for the stars.

Who knows, maybe one day I’ll return for work experience. I would love to get an insight into how this magnificent restaurant works from behind the scenes.

Brents The Dining Experience

On the rainy drive to the very hilly Miskin Street in suburban Toowong, I asked my parents; “What is the difference between a restaurant and a dining experience?”

We came to the conclusion that Brents is taking a different approach and had chosen a unique name to set it apart from other restaurants. That is why I like Brents… it’s different… and in a good way!

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Mum spoke of earlier days in Toowong and prior to Brents, the famous international chef Bruno Loubert had a restaurant in the same place called Bruno’s Tables. Regrettably, Mum said although it was her plan, she did not make it to Bruno’s Tables.

We entered the left side of the charming Queensland cottage style house which is home to Brents. We passed the owner and head chef Brent Farrell’s cabin of trophies with awards such as Apprentice of the Year (QLD) and later in his career Chef/Owner of the Year (QLD).

Once at the table we were given a choice of sparkling or still water and presented with the menus. Mum and Dad decided on the Romantic Package consisting of an Appetizer, sorbet and dessert with their choice of entrée and main. I chose from the  a la carte menu.

A white-gloved waitress returned to our table and set out a many rows of cutlery.

The Amuse Bouche of Persian feta with tomatoes and a crisp wafer was served. I thought it reminiscent of bruschetta although served in a mini shot glass and so cold it made the glass frost. Unfortunately this was not conducive to a good photograph. I found it a fresh and vibrant start.

The Appetizer I really had set my mind on was the wild mushroom cappuccino, truffle oil & Iberico (dried ham) crumb, but Mum and Dad were given it as a part of their set menu. This meant I could share it and instead ordered the Pasta Dura Bread (which my Mum had been keen on trying) with a selection of butters, which on this day consisted of an earthy truffle butter and zesty chive butter. This, dear readers… is quite possibly the best bread I have eaten even better – it is made in house! I had quite a bit of Mum and Dad’s cappuccino and it was a rich dark brown/black mushroom soup with nice airy foam and a hint of truffle and touch of prosciutto-like crumb.

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Next, the entrees, mine was a venison Carpaccio with anchovy mayonnaise, red grape sorbet, Parmesan and rocket. I loved the cold component to the dish because it provided a nice sweetness and created a refreshing sauce at the end of the meal. The Carpaccio was sliced so finely that it was easy to cut and wasn’t chewy. The edible flowers beautifully decorating the plate were most likely grown in the garden at the back of the restaurant. Every component on the dish complemented each other to perfection.

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Dad’s entrée was a prawn and cerviche of scallop with herb crème, melon & radish salad and lemon oil.

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Mum’s entrée was one of the dishes of the night! It was Toolango delight gnocchi with mushroom, blue cheese, compressed pear and burnt butter.

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On Brent’s website they said that they have an edible flower garden out the back which could be viewed by asking a waiter. Of course we wanted to see where some of the food we just ate came from, so we walked up a flight of stairs to another dining room reminiscent of the design of Two Small Rooms (also in Toowong).

We were given a heads up by a waiter that we would be walking through a loud hen’s party as we set out on a walkway leading to the garden. We were surprised at how elevated Brents is because we felt like we had walked quite a steep incline. Outside the greenhouse were a couple of gardens, containing some edible flowers like borage, garlic flowers, nasturtium and marigolds to name a few. There were also rhubarb and tomatoes. Inside the greenhouse were rocket, chervil, snow pea tendril and others.

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We returned to the table to find the palate cleansers had arrived. I had a strawberry and black pepper sorbet and Mum and Dad had the mandarin and poppy seed sorbet. I absolutely loved mine, as there were nice strawberry slices at the bottom of the glass that added to intensify the strawberry theme. I didn’t really taste the black pepper on top. I loved the idea of a palate cleanser on the menu and wish many more restaurants should do the same.

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Mum and Dad’s sorbet had the problem of getting poppy seeds stuck in your teeth but nevertheless it did its purpose of cleansing.

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Mains arrived and I had opted for the crispy confit duck with butternut pumpkin, eureka lemon and licorice. The meal was neatly plated on a slab of slate with a splash of colour from the bright yellow lemon curd and the orange pumpkin puree. You would expect to see a plump leg of a duck or two sitting on the plate, but no, they do things differently here. Instead there were two rectangular prisms that when broken, separated into strips of meat. I think Brents may have confited the duck pieces then separated the meat, packing it in a terrine dish and then slicing it. What a great technique of serving confit duck as it looked great and a different version to the rustic ones we see elsewhere. Anyway, on to the taste! The curd was an interesting option and tasted great with the sweetness it added to the dish. The duck was dry as suspected, as it is hard to retain the juiciness when it has been cooking for a long time. It did have a nice meaty taste though. The puree had a strong pumpkin flavour that took the dish to a new level. I am not a fan of licorice but I gave it a try by itself and it still didn’t float my boat so I gave a piece to Mum and Dad. Dad tried it with the rest of the meal and said that he didn’t like it by itself but with the rest of the dish it was great. There was one last piece and it went fantastically with all the other components. I wished I hadn’t given the other pieces away!

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Mum’s main was the market fish of the day which was barramundi with a saffron and vanilla bouillabaisse, beetroot and broad beans.

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Dad had the crispy skinned pork belly with sautéed scallops, cauliflower, chorizo tapioca and oxtail jus.

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A waiter came into the dining room carrying a balloon glass with an intriguing looking dessert and placed it on a neighboring table. It looked amazing so I had to order it for dessert.

It was a champagne marshmallow with roasted strawberry ice cream, strawberry granita and flowers. The champagne was subtle at first and then became more pronounced  as I ate more of the dish. The granita was so cold that it set off the nerves in my teeth, so for those with sensitive teeth I would approach with caution. The roasted strawberry ice cream was fabulous but I couldn’t discern the difference between roasted or fresh strawberry . The flowers would have been from the garden at the back and added a splash of colour to the otherwise predominantly red and white dessert.  All in all it was a fantastic cold dessert with creative presentation.

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As part of Mum and Dad’s “romantic package” (which wasn’t that romantic considering they were taking their 14 year old son to dinner!), their dessert was an assiette of chocolate. On it was (from left to right) a chocolate cone filled with parfait, chocolate tart, biscotti,chocolate creme brulee, raspberry sorbet and chocolate pudding with extras.

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On our way out to pay we were reminded once again of how successful Brents has been with the Diner’s Choice Award standing proudly in a cabinet awarded to them by the QLD Good Food Guide. Considering that a large number of people voted for this restaurant, it seems Brents has a large fan club that loves its creativeness, uniqueness and understanding of modern French techniques and I’m happy to be one of them!

The Long Apron

Whenever the town Montville pops up in conversation, my mind drifts off to the award winning The Long Apron Restaurant. The Long Apron is situated on 22 acres with lush grand fig trees, jacarandas and a kitchen team devoted to using at least 90% of produce sourced locally. I don’t think you get any more local than your own kitchen garden. I nod and exclaim “I love that place!”

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I was doing my routine research on The Long Apron (TLA) when I came across a review of TLA by Not Quite Nigella (scroll down to bottom). Apparently there is a chef’s table and you know me, I’ll do whatever I can to be at it – see my Buffalo Club review HERE.

I gave TLA a call in the afternoon of the day of our booking and luckily no one else had requested it.

The acclaimed chef of the TLA is Cameron Matthews, 6 foot 8, mad hatter and genius-like. With his promise that “I put my heart and soul in every plate”, it’s clear he has a passion for his work. He was the former head chef of Siggi’s in Brisbane and Restaurant Lurleens at Sirromet Winery (which is also amazing by the way).

With the name TLA and Cameron’s height you might expect there to be a link, but no, it is called TLA because of the traditional aprons that were worn from the chest to ankles thus a long apron.

Mum, Dad, The Princess (my sister) and I left for Montville from Maleny (where we were holidaying) late in the afternoon. As we turned into the Spicer’s Clovelly Estate we noticed a person lying down by the pool and thought that it was a bit odd.

We parked underneath the large fig tree at the restaurant. With the light failing, the Princess and I had time to venture in the garden while Mum and Dad enjoyed a glass of bubbly over looking the rolling hills.

First I noticed the large lemon tree and then found the Lychee, Lemon, Jappa Orange and Guava trees.

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Then I found that the person beside the pool was in fact a statue lying down by the pool.

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The kitchen garden consisted of three raised garden beds, and grew a range of herbs (chives), vegetables (carrot) and edible flowers (nasturtiums).

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After going on a photography spree, the Princess and I returned to Mum and Dad where I began to state my case for ordering a degustation (at least 5 courses) and pleaded – you know this place was awarded best regional restaurant and since we’re here we might as well make the most of it. To my surprise I won. Five courses it was and we were seated at our table with a front view of the kitchen.

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Two things surprised me, first, there were only 3 chefs in the kitchen and secondly, the normal dining room was away from us providing an exclusive experience given our proximity to the kitchen.

Given we could order our five courses from the a- la-carte menu, we decided our goal was to try everything on the menu. We had 15 choices and there were three dishes in each of the five sections. We all agreed that we would only miss one dish. Our waiter for the night, Martin, greeted us and took our orders and answered our many queries knowledgeably throughout the night.

A late change of the second course from Mum meant we would in fact be missing out on a really intriguing dish. To this day we still don’t forgive her for that. The Princess being her picky self (which Martin said was good because “you can pick what you like”) was only interested in one dish on the menu which was the duck so she would be just having that and if she was good she could have a hot chocolate at the end of the night.

The kitchen team was already in action with taste tests of sauces and making sure all garnishes were on the workbench. We started seeing some really interesting amuse bouches and bread come out of the kitchen. Then we saw ours.

Bread:

Soft and fresh sourdough made in house with a creamy spreadable butter also made in house made from Maleny Dairy Cream. Served next to it was a pot plant! It consisted of a lemon and eucalyptus mousse, a soil made of olives and a tree branch like bread sticks.

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Amuse 1: Watermelon Sashimi with Braised Fennel.

The fennel gave it a lovely sweetness. The watermelon had a soft delicate texture, unusual for a cool and crispy fruit. I think it had been marinated until it became soft.

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Amuse 2: Fish crackers- snapper and squid with saffron mayonnaise.

Way better than the packet bought prawn crackers at most Asian takeaways. It had a nice saltiness that didn’t overpower with a creamy mayonnaise. The crackers were everything you expect them to be, crunchy and that great mouth feel where you can suck until it gently crumbles and dissolves.

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We were very impressed, what had come so far really intrigued and was uber-creative. We saw some other dishes leave the kitchen, which heightened the anticipation for the first course even more!

My Course 1: Aged WAGYU TARTARE, charred pepper, local olives, quail egg, cured ox.

The tartare had all the usual seasoning on a regular beef tartare. However what made this one different was that Rump Cap (with a marble score of 7!) was used as opposed to a very plain beef cut. A battered piquillo pepper provided a subtle spiciness and crispiness to the dish. It had a strong onion flavour from the seasoning in the tartare. I would have loved to have more of those delicious quail eggs though.

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Dad’s Course 1: Grilled leeks, HERVEY BAY SCALLOPS, marinated clams, green rhubarb vinegar, bay oil.

Nice thinly sliced scallop ceviche with leeks two ways- fried rings and grilled, lovely clams added another texture. Also included pickled samphire, which is the second time I have come across it. The first time being, at The Buffalo Club. In reacquainting ourselves with it, I said I thought it was kind of like asparagus that grows near the sea.

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Mum’s Course 1: Jerusalem artichoke, SLOW COOKED CELERIAC, hazelnut, pear, foie.

Consisted of artichoke three ways (unfortunately Mum recalls two, fried and pureed) foie gras sauce, burnt hazelnuts, thinly sliced slow cooked celeriac.

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So far everything was very artistically presented with many components, though all complementing each other, but never overpowering nor detracting from the star of the dish.

Mine and Dad’s Course 2: smoked beet embers, MOOLOOLABA SPANNER CRAB, buttermilk, yarra valley salmon.

My favourite component was the Buttermilk foam. We both agreed that the buttermilk wasn’t as tasty in the mash as foam. The beet embers were smoked then dehydrated which gave them an intricately good texture. Something was very salty but we couldn’t pick where it came from, possibly the crab. The roe was beautiful and made that perfect pop in my mouth.

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Mum’s Course 2: PLOUGHMANS, pickled cucumbers and onions, jamon iberico, emmental, herb taramasalata.

Mum thoroughly enjoyed this dish saying best Ploughman’s plate she has ever had. I was quite interested that it was on the menu as it is not a usual fine dining kind of dish.

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The kitchen was in full swing with beautiful looking plates going out at a fast rate. Bring on course 3!

My Course 3: Braised GLASSHOUSE SNAILS roasted leek, morcilla, fennel & apple.

Based on an actual garden with leaf like lettuce leaves and a log like roasted leek with Glasshouse Mountain snails and crunchy morcilla (which is a Spanish blood sausage)representing soil. The addition of fennel and apple created a refreshing crispness. The snails were glossy and plump and as expected, an earthy flavor. The long leek was surprisingly easy to cut and wasn’t stringy. A selection of different lettuces gave variations of green.

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Dad’s, Mum’s and The Princess’ Course 3: Roasted DUCK BREAST, coastal honey, pear, linseed, duck ham & nasturtium.

The duck ham was made in house and was with a tender roasted Gympie duck breast. The honey and mustard seed sauce was just strong enough to come through with all the other ingredients. A seed mix including linseed, caraway, fennel and sunflower seeds was used for crunchiness. Cameron said that it would be the seed mix he would feed ducks if he owned some.
A lovely massive glass bowl was placed on the presentation table, I thought to myself that looks very interesting. It was in fact my next course.

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My Course 4: steamed fillet of REEF FISH, beets, radishes & smoked prawn butter.

The Snapper was perfectly steamed befitting its delicate nature with a touch of sweetness. The semi-dried carrots were slightly crunchy while the mini steamed beets and radishes were soft to the bite. The smoked prawn butter sauce added some complexity to the fish. A single fish scale its only minute error.

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Mum’s Course 4: rump cap of WAGYU, onions, tea & beer, horseradish cream, heirloom vegetables.

Mum’s beef was very, very tender. The horseradish cream, tea & beer sauce and a flavoursome dust (possibly tea flavored) while lovely by themselves were perfection with the meat. The heirloom vegetables were perfectly cooked and the mash – sublime.

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Dad’s Course 4: confit LAMB LOIN, buttermilk ricotta, asparagus risotto, nuts & grains.

Best dish of the night! The ricotta plating technique reminded me of a dish at The Buffalo Club, both spread around the sides of the plate with quite possibly a paintbrush. The lamb was amazing!! It was topped with crumbs of nuts and with a summergreen risotto, which Martin explained was not a risotto at all because it was rice less. Dad picked out a strange shaped piece of crumbed meat. It was soft inside and we all agreed that it was possibly a crumbed sweetbread.

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Wow, what an amazing journey already through the savoury dishes. Onwards and upwards!

My course 5: salad of “FRUITS & FLOWERS”, violet, rose, elderflower, raspberry sorbet.

Elderflower and raspberry sorbet with a selection of many freeze dried fruits like raspberries, blueberries, and strawberries. I loved the coldness and crunchiness of the dish. Out of the whole menu the freeze dried fruits are one of the only ingredients that Martin advised were bought elsewhere – though still reasonably local in nearby Brisbane.

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Dad’s course 5: blueberries, fresh, dried, sorbet, PINE PARFAIT, lemon thyme.

Martin described this as “the simplest dish on the menu” which was funny because he then described Mum’s dish as “the most complex dish on the menu”. Dad hogged this dish as he loved it and I only had one spoonful of it but it had very clean flavours.

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Mum’s Course 5: mint sponge, MALENY GUERNSY MILK SHERBET, choc-mint truffle, green rhubarb jam.

So many elements! I swapped with Mum half way through and it was amazing. The mix of many mint components created a rich dish with many textures- my favourite being the ganache like truffle. Mum preferred the refreshing style of my dessert with its array of berries a refreshing and beautiful fruit salad, while I loved the indulgence of her dessert with its silver foil covered ganache.

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The Long Apron sets a high standard for not only the Montville/Maleny region but also for Queensland and while Cameron is at its helm using most of the restaurant’s ingredients sourced from the Sunshine Coast Hinterland, I am certain it will stay at the forefront of fine dining restaurants in Queensland.

The Long Apron (Spicers Clovelly Estate) on Urbanspoon

GoMA Restaurant

“I have booked a table at the GoMA restaurant for 1pm tomorrow.” Take a guess at who might have emailed me this? This in fact, was from the ex-restaurant reviewer for the Courier Mail, Margie Fraser.  Even better, she invited the ex-ex-reviewer Lizzie Loel to come along as well. Not only did I enjoy a terrific meal but also learned from the best in the restaurant critiquing industry! What more could I ask for?

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I had contacted Margie to tell her

1. How awesome she is; and

2. To ask if I could come and see her in action at a review.

Unfortunately the Courier Mail changed the section her review was in and axed the reviews. She very kindly let me dine with her anyway. I had already met and worked with Lizzie at the Noosa Good Food and Wine Festival but I hadn’t talked to her about my blog.

To be honest I had barely heard of the GoMA restaurant, so my expectations weren’t very high. When I read their menu online, I was pleasantly surprised. The food looked gourmet and fine dining. I read about dishes that used wood sorrel and juniper berries! Then I read that their new head chef is Josh Lopez who staged at Noma (voted best restaurant in the world) and was previously running Spring before Kym Machin took over. I was excited!

Once at GOMA I realised that it was the first time I walked through without being crowded by my schoolmates on a school excursion.

I arrived a little early, so I walked onto the deck looking over an open grass area that I remember playing on, on school excursions.

Margie arrived first (sorry any chefs or restaurant owners, but I can’t give her appearance away) and we discussed the menu and talked about reviewing restaurants. Then Lizzie turned up and recognized my face but couldn’t remember my name. I reminded her and we started ordering.

We found out that Josh was new to the GOMA restaurant, had been under the radar for a while so even Margie (who is on the board of trustees) didn’t know.

We each chose different entrees.

I had the Carpaccio of Southern Downs beef with egg yolk confit, chive cream, capers and smoked tomato.

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Josh presented the dish remarking; “Great choice.”  It was beautifully plated with a stunning nasturtium leaf and bits of green rocket adding to the green and red colour theme. Texture played a critical part in this dish with the smoothness of the beef and tomato relish, soft ooziness from the egg and the crunchiness of the smoked tomato and capers.  On the downside though, I am going to use Manu Feildel’s (Chef and My Kitchen Rules Judge) famous words “Where’s the sauce?” Nevertheless it was a spectacular dish and a credit to the Chef’s creativity.

Margie had the confit of ocean trout, green peas, spring flora and fennel.

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Lizzie had the beetroot and chevre salad, toasted walnuts and ruby chard.

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My main was a fillet of pan seared yellowtail kingfish, celeriac, pickled vegetables and crayfish emulsion.

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The kingfish was perfectly cooked with amazingly crispy skin. The chef’s knife technique was textbook with fine slicing on display. The crayfish emulsion was superb with a hint of seafood that was neither over nor underwhelming.  The whole dish was a textbook effort!

The saying “Great minds think alike” was evident with Margie ordering the same as me.

Lizzie ordered the roasted rack of lamb, celeriac, nettle puree and bordelaise.

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Josh had also made us two sides that he thought that we would like.

There was a vine of blistered Noosa red tomatoes with drizzled pear balsamic and shaved

Regianno. Once you bit into the skin the tomato burst releasing its beautiful juices.

There were also haricot verts (green beans) and butter beans with garlic emulsion. So lovely and juicy!

We ordered the dessert recommended by our waiter, to share between the three of us but happily two dishes were served. The dessert was the seven sins consisting of chocolate ice cream, chocolate cake, chocolate jelly, chocolate mousse, chocolate soil, chocolate nibs and chocolate sauce.  All components using valrhona chocolate.

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This was another dish that had varied textures, again showing the chef’s ability to match flavours and textures. All components were outstanding from the light and airy mousse to the dense, rich cake and velvety jelly. I only wish there had have been a second scoop of ice cream. It was a decadent, sumptuous and indulgent dessert.

I predict GoMA becoming one of the best in Brisbane due to Josh’s creativity and his understanding of texture.

Based on our lunch, it’s well on its way to the top!

Click to add a blog post for GOMA Restaurant on Zomato

Spring Chef’s Table

My good friend Harry (who has eaten with me before at the second chocolate appreciation night) was up for a good night of eating so I told him that we should try out the chef’s table experience at Spring Bistro. Mum and Dad decided to come too and as we walked through the door a whole roasted suckling pig lay down on the table. We knew we were in for a good night!

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There was a bit of musical chairs as we were moved a couple of times around the table, but it was back on track when Ben gave us some fresh house made smoked cardamom bread with smooth butter that he made earlier that day. Delish!

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Kym and the team were focusing on using pig for the two-course meal tonight. Ben V was playing host and he did a fantastic job! As you can see in this photo he is working hard, running from side to side like speedy lightning!

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Soon after the entree was presented to us. It was a beautiful pappardelle pasta with pulled pork in a tomato based sauce. The pasta was cooked al dente and the tomato sauce wasn’t unbalanced as the tomato wasn’t acidic and not too sweet, providing a lovely fresh and piquant meal.

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Main was perfect! Roast pork with roast potatoes, roast apple and an impeccable orange syrup jus. The crackling was one of the crispiest I’ve ever had and you should have seen the Princess’ (my Sister) reaction when I told her about it later. She was so jealous! The potatoes have now become Mum’s favourite way of cooking it as Ben told her how he did them. They are par cooked, quartered, placed in a fry pan, CAREFULLY tossed with rosemary and cooked until golden. Season and… best potatoes ever! The jus had an intense orange flavour throughout that complemented the pork amazingly. We had a sample of the syrup by itself and it tasted very rich so it would have been tricky to make sure there was enough of it in the jus but that it didn’t overpower the rest of the meal.

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Then dessert of chocolate profiterole with almond ice cream was presented to us. The profiterole was everything it is meant to be; a beautiful crisp outside with a creamy centre. The ice cream had the distinctive marzipan flavour. Devine!

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To finish off, a large board of cheeses and breads came out. We were given a bit of everything and had permission to come back and get as much as we want after. Cheeses included taleggio, cheddar, Portuguese cheddar, a Camembert and breads like brioche, lavosch, sourdough and a fruity bread.

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This is Ben and me after the meal.

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It was a stunning Friday night and the value was exceptional for $75 a person. On a Tuesday night the price is $50. I highly recommend a spot on this table so get on their website here and book yourself a seat.

e’cco bistro

e’cco was the restaurant that inspired my massive love for gourmet dining and cooking. One night Mum and Dad surprised me with my first cookbook, “Eating In”. I had recently read some cookbooks of Phillip Johnson (executive chef at e’cco bistro) that Mum and Dad owned. I was flicking through the book and one recipe caught my eye, as it would with anyone. It was the trio of chocolate – a white chocolate sorbet, milk chocolate mousse & dark chocolate delice. It looked amazing but it was far out of my reach at the time, I only wished I could try such an amazing dessert.

My parents usually reward me for achieving a good report card and the year seven one was especially good so I chose e’cco.

Mum and I walked into e’cco and took a seat positioned so I could look into the kitchen. I couldn’t believe that I was in e’cco. The bread that was served was the most top class bread I have tried. We ordered our meals and below you can see how excited I was.

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Our entrées arrived; I ordered a prawn, saffron and vanilla bean risotto with crispy pancetta.

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Mum ordered a chipotle-marinated quail, corn puree, cotechino, peas & coriander.

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I was impressed with the richness of the risotto and how the pancetta complemented it.

Phillip Johnson must have noticed me and came to our table and said hi and luckily I brought my “Eating In” book for him to sign.  Phillip told me about the people who inspired him and showed me a famous bistro book- “Modern Bistrot Cookery” by Antony Worrall Thompson, who Phillip worked for in London. Phillip gave me one of his cookbooks that I was missing – “Bistro”. I told Phillip about the trio of chocolate and he said that I could come back for work experience and create the dessert with Kristie the head pastry chef. YES!

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Mains arrived and Phillip left us to it and went back into the kitchen. Unfortunately Mum and I forgot about the camera and started eating the mains. It’s very rude to do this but we took photos anyway and here they are. Well somehow I lost the photo for my duck dish but here is Mum’s anyway.

Mums Dish: Blue eye cod with mash and a salsa verde (quarter eaten)

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The mash was flavoursome and it supplemented the duck effectively.

I couldn’t go past the crema catalana (orange zest and cinnamon flavoured cream) and Churros (a fried Spanish doughnut).  Mum treated herself to pedro ximenez (the name of a white grape in Spain which is made also as a varietal wine, an intensely sweet, dark, dessert sherry, so I have been told.)

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To top off, we finished with a good cup of tea for me and coffee for Mum, including house made biscuits.

What a lovely day, I cannot wait for work experience.

Wish me luck.

E'cco Bistro on Urbanspoon

Gillian’s Garden Café

These days, expectations have risen with nursery cafés, many already know of Australian expat, Skye Gyngell who brought to Michelin star fame England’s Petersham Nurseries. In Brisbane we have our own version with well-known chef Gillian Hurst in charge of a café in East Brisbane and I hoped we would be in for a treat.

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We had tried to get a spot at the café on a public holiday a couple of months earlier, but it was closed just like the other five places we tried that day. I had heard a lot about Gillian’s signature sand crab lasagna, which was the main reason we were so intrigued to try the café out.

We walked straight through the nursery to the cashier’s till where I noticed the Gram magazine which was the issue I was featured in.  The Princess (my sister), Dad and I took a right turn onto a raised wooden floorboard over-looking the pavement below which was also used for seating. It amazed me how big the café area is compared to the nursery.

The menus were presented to us. The Princess was happy to have hot chips while the big decision rested in Dad’s hands. To order two sand crab lasagnas or order one and try a different dish? As much as we wanted our own lasagnas we agreed on eating half of each other’s meals. The Princess went in search of giftware, some looking like antiques so she could try and bargain with Dad about getting something.

She came back just in time for the meals to arrive.

Our main of Sand Crab Lasagna with Abalone Cream Sauce and Salad

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Even with very high expectations the lasagna didn’t disappoint. The creamy crab sauce sandwiched by delicate pasta sheets, covered in a beautiful rich sauce of abalone brought out the memory of the sea within us all. Magical stuff!!

Our main of Crab and Prawn Tortellini with Saffron Broth

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The subtle flavours of the saffron balanced out nicely with the perfectly cooked pasta and chunky filling, adding texture.

The princess went back to find antiques and came back telling us about different vases and boxes she would love to have. She was unsuccessful on this occasion.

I was eyeing off the range of cakes on display and also the desserts specials on the boards. I was in two minds, ordering the Bread and Butter Pudding or the Panna Cotta. It turned out that the pudding wasn’t meant to be on the menu so I opted for the Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta with Summer Fruits.

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Okay, so it wasn’t the best choice of dessert for an overcast cold day but it was an amazing dessert anyway. It was perfectly set (which isn’t easily come by at other restaurants) and had a creamy, milky taste and was very, very smooth. The fruits stood out magnificently as they had a dressing, which tasted like orange blossom water. I wiped the plate clean with the last apple slice.

Unlike some other Nursery Cafés (i.e Bunnings) I have tried in my lifetime none have been as great as this one. While Gillian is at its head, it’s Magical Stuff!!